Waking early for breakfast we were a bit disappointed but not disheartened at the site of crackers and coffee for breakfast. When we read that breakfast was included we had hoped for at least beans. Oh well.
Our destination today was Liberia, but first on our list was the national park of Santa Rosa which was a 30 minute drive away.
At the park entrance Leire spoke with the attendant who informed us of how long it would take to visit the park, and what food was available. There was a cafeteria where we could book in for lunch, and all up we would probably need enough fuel for an hours drive. We were close to empty but decided we could make it.
We parked at the cafeteria and put in our reservation. The park had a research center and all the workers had lunch together so we would have to return at 12. It was about 10 so we headed to the lookout tower marked on our park map.
This parks landscape was noticeably different to what we had been used to so far. Instead of lush green dense and damp forest, we were surrounded by dry bush, sand and shady trees. It reminded me of back home in Australia.
We came to what looked like a farmers ranch and parked the car. We walked in what we thought was the right direction and came to a sign that said ‘Indio de Snudo’ which Leire translated to mean the Naked Indian Trail. Being another hot day I decided to take the naked trail in style and took off my shirt. Unfortunately Leire didn’t follow suit.
Trekking through the bush we spotted various bugs, butterflies, lizards and snakes, and strangely some turkeys high up in the trees. Further along we heard some rustling and looked behind us just as a Deer with its fawn following behind crossed over the trail and into the bush. It’s the first time Ive seen a wild deer, and trying to capture it on film without scaring it was difficult. It looked at us as confused. Were we actually there? or were we trees? I made the slightest movement and they were off!
Further along the Naked Indian Trail we came to an opening in the ground that looked like it could be a cave. We peered over the edge just as a raccoon looking creature came out. It took no notice of us as it walked up out of the opening and over the side. It sniffed around a bit in the scrub and then continued on its way, plodding down the trail with its tail up in the air.
We had thought the Naked Indian Trail would lead us to the lookout point but we obviously read the map wrong. Instead it ended at the main road, so we turned around and headed back to our 4WD Jimmy.
Back at Jimmy we grabbed some water then headed toward the barn house thing. We didn’t bother going inside as it looked like something you had to pay for with two women sitting at a table in the entrance..
Walking around the house we came to some steps that lead to a war memorial and an amazing view of the bush land and Arenal Volcano in the distance. We climbed up an iron rung ladder to the top of the memorial arch for an even better view.
We had plenty of time to spare so chilled at the top soaking up the sun and view. I layed on the wall with my head in Leires lap, and placed the camera between her legs. Bad idea. We got lost in conversation again and I made her laugh which caused the camera to drop, bang! No more camera..
Returning to the cafeteria we sat outside at a picnic table under the shade of a massive tree until it was time to eat. The cafeteria was filled with rows of tables and chairs, at the head of the cafeteria was a bench and behind that, the kitchen. The aroma in the air was making my tummy rumble and I was intrigued to see what was on the menu.
The ladies in the kitchen served up some chicken with the usual beans and rice with tortillas. There was also a generous serving of one of my fav dishes, fried banana!
This lunch was one of the few times we used proper cutlery. We had been spreading our peanut butter with a spoon and decided it was time to upgrade. We were able to 'acquire' a knife which would prove to be very handy indeed.
Filled up on tasty tasty food we put Jimmy into 4WD mode and headed for the beach.
The path to the beach was treacherous! The only distinguishing feature that made this a path was that it was devoid of any trees. It was a path of rocks and boulders. not a single smooth flat stretch anywhere. We started off on the path bumping around, shaking and rolling. The dash was vibrating constantly and when we spoke it was staccato.
Leire found it hilarious as she bounced around the cabin. I too thought it was pretty funny but my concentration on the next big boulder ahead kept me focused. I find it hard to describe just how bad this road was so will try post a video of it instead. Needless to say it was a rough ride.
About 40 minutes later we arrived at a small bridge. I stopped 10 meters away and got out to inspect. There was a path through the water on the left but I didn’t like my chances of getting stuck in the mud. Although the bridge looked dodgy, it seemed solid enough and we got back in the car.
Only slightly worried we took off over the bridge, steady at first then in a bit of a rush to get it all over with. After some banging and rattling we managed to get over the bridge and follow the now sandy path through sparse woodland.
The path came to a T-junction, to the right was a police officer walking up the steps of what looked like a beach house but I assumed was a research center. To the left was the car park where we got out and stretched our legs.
The area seemed like any normal picnic area you would go to on a weekend and I headed for the outhouse which was just a hole in the ground, and a smelly putrid hole at that.
Gathering our towels and food we headed down the dirt path to the beach. Just beyond the car park was the picnic area with wooden benches and tables. At the far end of the area was a group of people milling about a tent, with surfboards propped against trees. The whole area seemed quite harsh. My feet were already covered in dirty sand, the big flies were starting to bite and the heat of the day was making me sweat. Camping here would be more than uncomfortable I’m sure.
The bush land path gave way to a long dark sandy beach and an open view of the North Atlantic ocean in front. Looking left and right and far into the distance we were alone. We had the beach to ourselves!
To the left about 200m away was a wooden hut which presented the only shade on the entire stretch of beach. As we approached the hut we came across a dead turtle. It is the biggest turtle I’ve ever seen, a real giant, but its dried out and rotting shell suggested it had been dead for a few weeks. The carcass emphasized the harshness of this roasting barren stretch of coast.
We sat on logs in the hut and I started cutting up a mango. Leire ran back to the car to grab our mobile phones so we could take some pictures. Upon her return we gulped down the mango and some water then headed for the beach.
The sun was blazing down and the sand was piping hot. Reaching the wet sand I removed my thongs and ran for the water. I was hoping for cool refreshing water but instead jumped into warm and very salty water.
I turned and watched as Leire walked toward the water. Wearing her bikini and slowly wading through the water she looked amazing. I moved toward her pining for a kiss and received many. My worries about the broken camera and the stress from the rocky road all vanished immediately.
The waves were rolling in and I was shocked to discover Leire didn’t know how to catch one. I began teaching her the fine art of body surfing and within a few short minutes she caught her first wave! I was impressed.
After an hour or less of catching waves and fooling around we headed back to the hut for second lunch. We sliced up another mango and I pulled out the little bag of astronaut strawberries which I had bought from Camden Market before leaving London. The dehydrated strawberries weren’t too bad but made me feel sorry for the poor astronauts that have to eat all their food this way.
The drive back over the treacherous path was seemingly worse than before and I was worried the tires might burst as we struggled over the rough terrain. I could smell burnt rubber from the constant collisions with the heavy boulders and rocks but we eventually made it out and to smooth dirt roads. It once again felt like we were driving with pillows for tires.
We arrived back in Liberia and stopped for fuel and check the tire pressure. We were harassed by a little kid at the petrol station who wanted money or something and wouldn’t leave us alone. We were both tired from the hours under the intense sun and just ignored him and filled the car.
Leire suggested we go to the grocery store to stock up and while we were there we had a look at some cameras and spotted one that seemed nice enough but decided we would keep looking.
We arrived in Liberia and had a very hard time locating the hostel amongst the busy streets. After several U-turns, going the wrong way down one way streets and generally being lost I was ready to call it quits and give up. I parked the car, completely exhausted and frustrated. Leire and I both just wanted to relax. Leire got out and enquired about the hostel. She came back and said we had found it but the entrance was around the other side.
I drove around the back where the hostel receptionist was waiting for me by an open gate. I drove down the narrow lane and into what looked like some ones back yard. I drove slowly under the washing line and parked up against the tin fence. Leire caught up with me and we unloaded the car.
We hauled our luggage down a hallway that leads into the reception area. We checked in and then continued out of the reception and into the street. Crossed the road and entered the building on the other side. Down the hallway, past two or three rooms, and then to the outside area. The walkway split off left and right and circled the patio in the middle. We walked straight through the patio area filled with dark green vegetation, hanging pot plants and vines, past two picnic tables and to a little shed at the end, our room.
The small shed/room was stuffed with a crooked queen sized bed, a small fan was in the corner and a curtain separated us from the even smaller bathroom that was decorated with a chandelier and cement floor. We collapsed on the bed and I noticed the roof was lined with cardboard. Leire noticed the pillows were paper thin.
We freshened up and head out on the hunt for food. We walked around for a bit. Our hostel was located in the center of town and so we were right near the center square gardens. Almost all the towns of this medium size have one of these centers. They’re basically paved parks with a few trees, patches of well maintained grass and white cement benches.
Finding a nice looking restaurant we sat down for a Peruvian dinner. We had Fish, Octopus and beer.
After dinner we picked up two 40’s of Imperial and headed back to the hostel. We sat on a bench out the front of the hostel chatting, drinking our mammoth beers and watching the world of Liberia go by. The local soccer team, Liberia FC, had just won putting them in the finals, and everyone was partying. Since we had arrived people were driving by beeping there horns. Now that the game was over people were milling about and everyone was beeping there horns in celebration. It was going to be a crazy night for them, Leire and I however passed out at 9.
